Green River Paddling Trip

Last Revised: March 08, 2007
Text and photos by Tom Pridgen and Ed Montgomery

Desolation and Gray Canyons
Green River, Utah
October 17-25, 1998

It was a beautiful spring day when we first met at La Carreta to discuss a potential trip on the Green River in Utah for the coming autumn. Ed Montgomery and Rick Culbertson were the trip leaders - or at least they had chosen the river and had agreed to pull all the details together. As it turned out, logistically the trip would be very complex and there were many details which had to mesh. But, also, it turned out to be a better trip than any of us could have hoped for or imagined. It was wonderful.

Skipping a lot of the preparatory details for this write-up suffice it to say that after considering many options on gear, participants, shuttles etc. it boiled down to the following:

The Plan:
Ben Becker agreed to haul all boats and much gear via personal truck and canoe trailer to the put-in.  6 of us flew out of Nashville to Salt Lake City and drove a rental van to the take-out.  The put-in was Sand Wash (middle of nowhere).  The take-out was the town of Green River, about 90 miles downstream from the put-in.  The newlyweds combined their honeymoon with the river trip and met us at the take-out via automobile.  All the group who converged at the take-out were to fly single engine aircraft shuttle up the river and land on a butte/mesa near the put-in where we would rendezvous with Ben, our boats and gear.  We had been forewarned that this was one of the ten worst shuttle drives in the U.S. so we arranged for Ben’s truck and trailer to be driven to the take-out while we were paddling the river.  Are you confused yet?  I was.  Miraculously it all worked.

All except Ben arrived in the town of Green River on Saturday the 17^th.  Our lodging reservations were at "Robber’s Roost."  Here, we were "welcomed" by a desk clerk with the personality of a radish.  She was the only unfriendly person we found in town.  But she had good news, a message from Ben.  He was at the put-in.  Robber’s Roost was vintage Route 66 complete with tacky sign out front and bare light bulb overhead in our room.  Fortunately, the Roost was within walking distance of the town’s nerve center – "Ray’s Tavern" which boasted a large "Welcome Boaters" sign.  This was our kind of place so we headed there for supper and libations.  The walls were covered with t-shirts from far and wide, most having something to do with river running.  We would have liked to stay late into the night as there were many interesting characters in Ray’s but we needed our beauty sleep for an early morning flight on Red Tail Aviation.  The most memorable quote in Ray’s that night was from a demented looking kayaker who had just emerged from the canyons.  He and two buddies had run it with no raft support.  They traveled "real light."  He was incredulous when he heard our plans and said, "You guys are running it in CANOES?!"  This, along with the Bureau of Land Management’s warning about unsupported canoe trips needing Class III river skills as a minimum made some of us a bit more nervous.  We had heard everything from III- to IV+ about the rapids.  A lot depends on water flow of course.  We had about 4500 CFS – considered moderate for this time of year.

Sunday 18OCT98

Up early.  Sky is clear blue, chilly and the wind is calm.  A good day for flying a small plane and landing on rugged terrain.  Everyone is excited.  Some are even anxious or apprehensive.  The flight is a real treat.  The canyon country is beautiful in the early morning light.  The rapids we can see from 7 or 8 thousand feet above appear straightforward (they will look very different close up at river level).  The flight takes about 20 minutes.  We see our landing strip perched atop a mesa.  I am thankful there are no strong crosswinds.  I am also thankful when we see Ben’s truck from the air.  The planes drop us off and are gone in an instant.  The desert is very quiet now as we begin our hike down to the put-in.  What took 20 minutes to fly over will take nearly a week to paddle.  We quickly get that feeling of being "out there."

The put-in is occupied during the paddling season by a BLM ranger.  His name is Matt.   The ranger is young and friendly but takes his job seriously (too seriously as it turns out).  He checks us for permits and required gear.  We are registered for 8 but we have 9 in our party.  Ranger Matt says, "that could be a problem."  This is the first of many times we hear that quote.  Silver tongued Montgomery is confused why the last permit payment has not arrived.  He mailed it several days ago.  Ed is a convincing actor.  He even has us fooled.  Cash is not an option.  Ranger Matt finally drops the subject.  Our gear is all in order except Ben’s PFD which has a small bit of the flotation trying to escape the fabric housing.  Silver tongue offers to sew it up but Ranger Matt says it must be repaired by the original manufacturer.  We drop the subject this time.

There is one other party putting on the river today – two rafts and a kayak.  Ranger Matt gives us all the normal safety talk but says he will shorten it since we are all seasoned boaters.  He then does something which later proves very valuable.  We have a guidebook.  The guidebook we later learn is very accurate.  Unfortunately, the book shows all the rapids (50 or so) but does not rate them as to difficulty.  Ranger Matt tells us which ones to scout from shore and writes them down for us.  His memory and judgment prove infallible.  He also tells us which parts of the Indian Reservation on which we can and cannot strike a camp.

Finally – about noon – we set off.  The first 20 some miles are mostly flat-water but there is good current.  We are elated to be afloat on the river.  There are very few signs of humanity.  Some petroglyphs and occasional evidence of ranching and mining activity but that is about it.  No roads, no wires, no cellular phone antennae…it is no mystery why John Wesley Powell exploring the area over a hundred years ago called this "Desolation Canyon."  And Butch Cassidy and his gang used the canyons as escape from Old West Ranger Matt types.

Our first campsite is after about 15 miles at a place called Rock House Canyon.  There are petroglyphs, cottonwood trees and large sandy areas to pitch tents.  Ed fixes pizza in the Outback oven and it is very tasty.  Cleaning dishes in the dark is never fun though and October affords limited daylight.  We finish in the dark and get ready to bed down.  Rick and Ben choose to sleep in their bags without a tent since there is 100% chance of clear skies.  It proves to be our clearest and coolest night on the river.  The sky is awash with stars.

Monday 19OCT98

Ben and Rick’s bags end up with a thick coat of frost which melts the next morning and makes for soggy bags.  But things dry quickly in the desert, even when the temperature is low.  Ben’s thermometer drops to 25 F and he decides that he really does not need to know how cold it is.  The sun, some coffee and breakfast begin to warm us up.  We are camped next to Rock House Rapid so we start the day with a splash but it is easily negotiated and we have another day of mostly calm water sprinkled with a few playful rapids but nothing we cannot scout comfortably from our boats.  Jack’s Creek Rapid is a long class II but presents no problem.  The canyon scenery is magnificent.  Changing light and a host of colors from the rock accented with yellow autumn cottonwood trees.  Interesting formations such as "Lighthouse Rock" keep us with our mouths agape in wonder.  We cover another 13 miles this day and camp at Big Canyon.  We have the background noise of Big Canyon Rapid to drown out any snoring.  Jambalaya is on the menu tonight and it is delicious.  Debbie and Ed share most of the cooking duties in our cooking group this evening.  The other cooking group has red beans and rice.  We are all Cajun tonight but it is pure coincidence.  The temperature has warmed quite a bit from the previous evening but everyone opts for tents.  A nice campfire after dinner with a great bunch of folks puts the finishing touch on another delightful day on the river.  Brad and Debbie (remember the newlyweds?) celebrate their one month anniversary.

20OCT98

We awaken to another sunny, bright day with warmer temperatures.  No one wants to take any swims though.  The mocha brown river water is quite chilly.  According to Ranger Matt, we will have some real rapids today that we will need to scout from shore before running.  We have several warm up rapids – Firewater Rapid, Flat Canyon Rapid, Fretwater (then they ran out of names beginning with F), and Wild Horse Rapid (upper and lower) with several other no name rapids thrown in for good measure.  We reach Steer Ridge Rapid.  THIS IS A REAL RAPID, a solid III complete with strainers, large waves and holes and plenty of rocks requiring precision paddling.  Some take out on left to scout, others of us take out on right and climb a small mesa to get a view from above.  What we see does not look good.  The left is full of big waves and holes.  There are rocks and strainers in the middle.  On the right it is not as swift but there are so many rocks it will be dangerous to line through and the steep bank on both sides virtually rules out conventional portage.  Our paddling companions on river left apparently see a clean line though.  Ben Becker and Bill Jones start out just left of a strainer and rock jumble in center right.  We are still on the bluff and watch them deftly maneuver down center right plowing between two exposed rocks at the very end by making a hard left.  Wow, a perfect run.  They are followed by Kurt and then Brad and Debbie along the same route.  They make it look easy.  Ed and I head out along the same path.  If you start correctly it is easy...until the end when you need to make the hard left between the two exposed rocks.  There is a submerged rock in the middle!  Nothing to do but go for it now and brace and lean correctly.  We do and we are through.  Rick and Charlie get misaligned at the beginning but correct their path and get back on the "Becker line."  No problem, all are through.  But we have just begun with the rapids.

We paddle about three or four more easy rapids and reach Rock Creek.  Where Rock Creek comes into the canyon is a beautiful place.  There is a huge flat field with horses and the ruins of an old ranch.  It is forbidden to camp within ¼ mile of the actual mouth of Rock Creek so we walk across the field to see what is downstream before committing.  What we find is our prettiest campsite.  We walk back to the canoes and fill spare containers with Rock Creek water (which we will disinfect if later needed).  We then paddle down to where we had walked.  This campsite has it all.  And the weather is gorgeous to boot.  Everyone admits that this is the best campsite yet.  It is my turn to cook.  Cream of leek soup as an appetizer and then chicken with rice.  It is nothing fancy but it all tastes good out here.  Another great campfire and many tall tales of other rivers.  Koach Kauffman entertains us in his inimitable way with a true story.  No Swedish bikini team required – it does not get any better than this.  We have seen no one on the river yet.  I cannot remember exactly when, but we did get views of eagles – one American Bald and one Golden (not together) and we have seen tracks of all sorts of wildlife.  Speaking of wild life – the newlyweds pitch their tent too close.  Enough said.

21OCT98

We hate to leave this great campsite but breakfast is over and we have a lot of rapids to run.  Our experience with Steer Ridge tells that some will likely be tough and time consuming.  On the river again – the rapids mount up - Calf Canyon Rapid, Snap Canyon Rapid, Three Canyon Rapid, Belknap Falls (a NICE one), Chandler Falls.  And that was all BEFORE lunch.  We lunch in warm sunshine at Chandler Canyon and do a little hiking to stretch our legs.  After lunch – more rapids and a little rain.  A side trip to McPherson Ranch and Ouray Lodge (both defunct) is interesting and we do see one other small party of paddlers in rafts – we exchange greetings but that is all.  I think they enjoy having the river to themselves just like we do.  I believe this is the day that Brad counted 28 rapids.  All were run cleanly too.  We had planned to run 27 rapids but we went one further and camped below Florence Creek Rapid.  Florence Creek/Jack’s Rock is situated across the river from "Rain Canyon."  Amazingly, it is raining in Rain Canyon.  It merely sprinkles on us.  This is Brad’s birthday so after the salmon patties and cornbread are consumed it is time to bake Brad a birthday cake (brownies).  Damn, they are good!  Brad dresses for the occasion in what looks to be a Dr. Seuss Cat in the Hat.  Yes, we do have photos.  Another relaxing evening around the campfire.  Someone from the other food group says, "This chili is beginning to work on me" (name withheld by request but initials are WCJ).  The light rain finally forces us to call it quits for the day and slide into the sleeping bags.  28 rapids will really take it out of you!

22OCT98

The latter part of the previous day brought us out of Desolation Canyon into Gray Canyon.  It was fascinating to see how distinctly Desolation opened up and then we soon began dropping into Gray.  Oatmeal and breaking camp readies us for what are expected to be some of our toughest rapids.  With names like "Wire Fence" the very name implies danger.  Wire Fence comes early.  We scout it from shore.  It is a real rapid but it is short and there is a good recovery pool below.  We get some good pictures here.  Everyone gets through cleanly.  Three Fords is next.  It is longer, wider and not as easily scouted.  We cannot see the end of it.  Bill and Ben, Kurt, and Rick and Charlie are through but are around the bend and we cannot see them.  Brad and Debbie head out and get too far right.  They broach against a rock.  It looks bad to Ed and me from shore.  They are W-A-Y beyond the reach of a rope and in very swift water.  They keep their heads and eventually work their way off the rock.  It was tense there for a while.  Ed and I steer clear of the Brad and Debbie line.  All others are waiting in the eddy at the bottom.  Another big hurdle passed successfully.  Coal Creek Rapid will come late this afternoon and it is just as difficult or more so.  We have lunch at an interesting site with a collection of animal bones and other signs of humanity.  It is overcast and cool with a breeze so we do no not tarry.  We run several rapids, some with names but Coal Creek does not appear until we have the sun low in the sky – and right in our eyes as we head into Coal Creek Rapid.  The overcast skies we had at lunch are gone and we have bright sun obscuring our vision of the best path through Coal Creek Rapid.  Ben and Bill have a good clean run down left of center.  Kurt is next and hits a rock about a third of the way down.  No doubt made invisible by the sunshine.  Brad and Debbie avoid Kurt’s line but hit a different rock.  My eagle eye partner has watched all of this very closely.  Ed says he knows the way.  Trusting my partner we head out.  It is very difficult to see obstructions.  Ed is right though – we are ON THE LINE.  But WHOA, this rapid is LONG.  There is still two thirds of it to run, stay focused and brace!  We make it to the calm waters.  There is an obvious campsite on river left.  It is happy hour.  We are 14 miles from our take-out.  I don’t remember supper but I am sure it was delicious.

23OCT98

Warm sunshine and bright blue skies welcome us out of the tents.  We are all somewhat hesitant to leave this place.  We climb the canyon wall and look down on our camp and Coal Creek Rapid.  Ed fixes a western (what else?) omelet.  It is the tastiest I have ever had.  It may have something to do with the surroundings but this omelet would rival any in "civilization."  We slowly dry and pack all our gear taking extra care since we know it will be packed for the return to east Tennessee.  Gee, where is that?  It is quite easy to become absorbed into the canyon country.

We finally depart for our remaining 14 miles.  We run Rattlesnake Rapid without scouting from shore.  There are two reasons – we have more confidence toward the end of the trip and there is a visible clear route down the left inside curve.  A few more named rapids and a snack break on a sandbar follow.  Mid-afternoon we reach our last rapid (Swasey’s Rapid) which is almost within sight of the take-out.  Hey, this thing has some big water in it!  We hear a commotion behind us and see that Debbie has somehow fallen out of the boat and Brad continues to paddle a swamped Blue Hole.  Ed and I give Debbie a tow, after taking a photo of course.  Debbie laughs all the way to the take-out.  The take-out itself is a pretty place with Gunnison Butte on the horizon.  The two cars are at the take-out but not Ben’s truck nor the trailer.  We had built an extra day into our itinerary in case of a delay.  In other words we are here one day earlier than we told the shuttle drivers.  In the words of Ranger Matt, "that could be a problem."  Since we have transportation it is not a huge problem but we are at something of a standstill until we can get the truck and trailer back.  Interestingly enough, about 20 minutes after we beach, the rafts/kayak who put in on the same day we did show up.  We have not seen them since the put-in.  We talk and discover that they made only 5 miles the first day (we made 15) and they paddled 20 today (we covered 14).  Nonetheless, they take some group photos for us and then we begin sorting our gear for travel back east.  Ben goes to a phone and tries to reach the shuttle people but is only able to leave a message.  Finally we decide to split into groups to eat supper at Ray’s Tavern while others watch the boats and gear.  Within a short while after leaving Ben shows up in his truck!  He went to Ray’s and queried a waitress about how he might contact the shuttle folks.  The waitress informed him that he might ask their daughter who was sitting across the room.  See, I told you it was the town’s nerve center.

Epilogue
Ben headed back that night toward east Tennessee almost beating some of us fliers home.  A large group of us spent the next day hiking in Arches National Park before returning to Salt Lake City for the return flight the next day.  Some events have happened since the end of the trip that cause us all to reflect.  One paddler lost a father and another lost a brother.  Neither of these deaths was unexpected but the loss is always difficult to accept.  We are all mortal, better enjoy life while we can.  I recommend Desolation and Gray Canyons for enjoyment (but make sure you have all your permits before you go).

Photographs courtesy of Tom Pridgen and Ed Montgomery

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